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2013-11-19 01:01
in Indonesia2013, Ntrips, Trips
Jennifer and I had planned to go to Raja Ampat, which is in the middle of nowhere, Indonesia, and probably also why it's so pristine and filled with aquatic life.
To get there, a good option was to go through Bali, and since we used award flights (free flight in business using the stack of United miles I had gathered), we had to arrive in Bali 4 days before our connection to the next towns on the way to the boat.
After a quick online search, and asking some friends, I quickly figured out that spending 4 days in Bali wasn't the worst thing in the world, so that's what we did.
The flight from SFO to Bali (via Taiwan) with EVA Air was really good. Made flying as much of a breeze as it can be:
seabass was on the special order in advance menu, quite tasty
met the definition of lie flat :)
The EVA Business Lounge was quite nice too, even had ice cream :)
After the last flight, we arrived in Bali in pourring rain, to be greated by our guide, see next post.
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2013-11-20 01:01
in Indonesia2013, Ntrips, Trips
We arrived in pretty good rain, which only got worse over time for the rest of the day
Everyone seemed to have a tour or a guide waiting for them, we did too
Our guide took us for an evening at the Zoo where we had dinner, saw an animal show, and got to visit the Zoo at night with a flashlight (not forgetting getting to feed an elephant):
After the visit, we got a drum and dance, and fire dancing show:
and that was it for the evening, despite the great flight, we were beat and jetlagged.
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2013-11-21 01:01
in Indonesia2013, Ntrips, Trips
We enjoyed the views from our beach hotel in the morning (Puri Satrian) before heading out. It's a beach resort hotel, which wasn't really what we're about, but we still had a look around:
Next, Tawan, our guide, came to pick us up. He drove us around Denpasar in the morning and took us to the Bajra Sandhi Monument:
Next, he took us to the near island where we booked our dolphin experience with Bali Dolphin Interaction (beware, there is another one, and apparently it's not as good). Driving around was "interesting", you got to see all kinds of things:
Eventually, we got there. Before I put more pictures, I'll answer the "isn't this mean to inhumane to the dolphins" part. I'm not an expert, but while their enclosures didn't look super big, they were in the ocean (i.e. real water), they are allowed to go swim with one another after their work hours (bite marks and scratches they do to one another confirmed that), and allegedly, they're let out to swim in the ocean on sundays, but they come back for the easy food and the routine they're used to. While I'm not sure if I could believe that, cats and dogs do that happily and come back for food and companionship, so maybe it's possible for dolphins too, at least I hope so.
All that being said, we were split up in groups and had one dolphin to play with for each group. The dolphin is obviously trained to do tricks, but just like a dog that likes go fetch a ball, apparently our dolphin was more than happy to do some of the tricks and bring us back a ball too:
Once our dolphin fun was over, Tawan took us to a place that sells Luwak Coffee, the most expensive coffee in the world, where individual beans are eaten and pooped half digested by a local animal (Luwak). Apparently, it makes coffee better (I wouldn't know because I hate coffee :) ):
Luwak, the choosy animal
Next, we went to the monkey forest, which is both a nice temple, and lost of wild monkeys, which you're not supposed to feed since if they bite you, you can get rabbies, but you can pay a local to feed them for you and make them climb on you:
some tourists fed the monkeys directly, but it wasn't a grand idea. Some do end up bitten.
just what you're not supposed to do
We ended by having dinner close to our new hotel in Ubud, at Indus, with a great view and good food:
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2013-11-22 01:01
in Indonesia2013, Ntrips, Trips
We got to enjoy the pool and views by the resort in the morning:
breakfast location
Tawan then took us out for a drive:
lots of rice fields
people drying their rice on the side of the road...
We went to Gunung Kawi. On the way down to a temple, lots of stores:
Next door was Tirtha Empul Temple:
offerings
Next, we went to a Volcano Rim, but unfortunately the weather and visibility were poor, so the view was not that great and we ended up not going to the hot springs that were down there, but we still had lunch at the view restaurant that was right there, and the buffet was tasty and quite cheap:
Later on the road, we went fruit hunting for Jennifer :)
On the way back, we went to Penglipuran temple and its street of traditional houses for tourists to see:
Last, but not least, the elephant cave and its surroundings:
On the road, we saw a flock of ducks used to 'clean' a rice field :)
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2013-11-23 01:01
in Indonesia2013, Ntrips, Trips
We started with another great breakfast and since we had a bit of spare time in the morning, we spent it to enjoy the resort:
the lizards were having breakfast too :)
the staff kept the ground meticulously
This is not what I usually do, but we had some spare time in the morning :)
We then started our day with the bird park, which I figured would be fun. I was indeed right, on top of having unusual birds, they had some you could interact with (including the big blue parrot that came down from its perch slowly and calmly to bite my finger pretty hard, stupid parrot).
they showed us how cocks fight. Mmmh, ok
this one was super friendly and literally asked me to scratch under its feathers :)
this little guy wanted to clean our ears :)
Next door, they had reptiles, we had a quick look:
Our next plan was to have suckling pig, a local specialty. Yummy piggy was had :)
Next, we got to visit places that had art for sale: wood carvings and paintings:
art indeed
To finish the day, we went to Tanah Lot to see the fesh water source in the middle of the ocean, the temple that hosts it, and the surroundings. Once is supposed to see the sunset there, but it was an utter clusterfsck of people due to a special gathering of motorcrossers that day, as well the regular tourists. It took us almost 45mn just to get out of the parking lot before sunset, never mind what it would have been later... (yeah, we missed sunset, but we were going to be 10 days on a boat, so we'd get many more):
at the lowest tide, you can walk to the fresh water island
fresh water comes out of the small island
they have a secret snake in a cave you're supposed to pet (for a tip)
they have a secret snake in a cave you're supposed to pet (for a tip)
After a long drive back to Ubud (which would have been twice as long, if not more, had we waited for sunset), we got an evening reflexology massage, which did include some severe foot plant manipulations to stimulate nerve endings
We're still wondering how much we really got for the painful foot manipulations :)
And that was the end of our 4th Day in Bali.
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2013-11-24 01:01
in Indonesia2013, Ntrips, Trips
Our last day in Bali was really just the morning to burn before going to the airport for a couple of flights to Sorong (via Makassar) to reach Raja Ampat, our ulimate diving destination.
A few more pictures of our resort, Ubud by Como, on the way out:
We got up early to visit the Bali Zoo and Saphari Park. Lack of planning and knowledge (and them having a useless website), caused us not to know they had private safari tours in a jeep for 2 where you could hand feed the animals. That would clearly have been the highlight of the visit. Instead, we got the normal group safari tour, which was still good to see animals there.
We didn't sign up in time for an elephant ride that would meet the time we had to leave by, but we got the camel ride instead, which wasn't bad :)
the private jeep we should have been in :)
We went to visit the tigers:
just like our cat, but a tiny bit bigger :)
but eh, it was hard to pass on :)
grooming, just like our cat
Time for our camel ride:
Even if we didn't get to ride one, we did get to feed some elephants before their bath. Their trunk is very very good at probing and tickling you everywhere until you hand out the food :)
Then was time for the elephant show, this zoo's main feature:
Last but not least, we had a quick look at the rest of the place before heading out:
After the Zoo, Tawan drove us towards the airport, but since we had a bit of time left over, we had lunch by the beach, where we hadn't spent any time so far :)
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2013-12-07 01:01
in Indonesia2013, Ntrips, Trips
We arrived in Jakarta the previous evening, but with a delayed flight, heavy rain, and a 2H time difference, we forgoed our plans to look around, had dinner in the hotel and went to bed.
The next morning, we had breakfast at the hotel, and we went out to spend 5 hours looking around before heading for the airport for our flight to Taipei.
We first went to the nearby mosque with hopes to have a quick look inside, but we likely arrived at the wrong time. Someone who didn't speak much English told me we couldn't really enter and look without him to escort us, and only 40mn later. Since it wasn't clear and we didn't have time to wait in our short morning, we just left to meet arturo at Monas were we had planned to meet around 08:00.
Across, there was a church across the street. It wasn't the best one ever, but probably nice for there:
Walking around town was not worth it, and crossing each street could take minutes before I could find a break in traffic to run across (no lights or crosswalks in many places). I've never been to india, but from what I've heard so far, it seems similar. For next time: use cabs to go everywhere, even for a 5mn walk.
We eventually made it to Monas, the national monument to meet Arturo. They were supposed to have an elevator to go to the top, but it was broken. We took the stairs, and those were also closed 1/5th of the way up, so we ended up just a bit higher for a quick view which wasn't fantastic anyway, so no big loss.
They had a diorama downstairs, with interesting history (as written by the winners :D )
view from the level slightly higher up.
Next, we went ot the Museum Nasional which had decent collections to look at:
nice piggy bank
We got to see places in Indonesia we didn't go to:
When traffic isn't moving at all (which is often apparently), street vendors walk up to the cars:
And that was it, we had to go to the airport. There were a few more things to see in Jakarta, but they were farther away, so we wouldn't have made it there in the limited time we had.
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2013-12-07 23:59
in Indonesia2013, Ntrips, Trips
This page is a wrapup of our trip in indonesia, go to main page to see the other posts.
First, we our time in Bali was great thanks to our guide and driver, Tawan. If you need someone to help you in Bali, contact him at wayan_tawan@hotmail.com.
While we didn't get to see a lot of Indonesia (mostly Bali), we still got to see Bali, Makassar, Sorong for long enough to know that there isn't much to see, and Jakarta. Clearly, there is a big contrast between Islands that are more Muslim than others, although Indonesia allows all religions. Ok, the religion part became a longer rant, so I'll leave it at the end.
What to visit
We didn't get see a lot of Indonesia, but from what I've seen and read about, Bali is most likely the one place in Indonesia where you can spend the most time to see and experience different things. It's also more liberal (i.e. less Muslim) and therefore less likely to have rules or restrictions that would be offensive or needlessly restrictive for most foreigners.
People
People were super nice everywhere. Obviously we mostly dealt with people in the service industry, people in Bali, and people in hotels elsewhere, but they really all were great.
Roads
We spent most of our time in Bali and we were mostly inland where the roads were much worse than down south. It was all 2 lane roads, with often one lane being blocked by someone drying their rice on it, or someone parked because there is no parking. As a result, short distances take a long time, and we were happy to have a patient driver. I'm however not optimistic about the future because unless they're willing to tear down rows of houses that are smack in front of the two lane road, there is no way to widen the road to allow for more capacity. When you see bigger tour busses on them, it gets scary.
In Jakarta, it was not unusual to stay blocked in one spot for 10 or 15mn, while vendors walk from car to car to sell you food or other things.. Before long, they should sell you gas for your car :)
Crossing the street in Jakarta without getting killed took all my skills as a seasoned jaywalker, while Jennifer said she wouldn't walk in the street anymore and take a cab to cross the road if need be.
Depending on where you are, sidewalks have huge holes where you can not only trip, but even break your ankle. I was happy to have a flashlight with me when walking on the street in Ubud at night, because with dark streets and random holes or very uneven pavement, you had to pay attention.
Some road were pretty narrow and still had rice drying on them
Food
In places where muslims get to dictate their dietary restrictions and impose it onto others, the food was fairly poor (or maybe ok if you're a vegetarian). They do pig very well in Bali, and fish is hit or miss, but all the other meat I tried was disappointing to doubtful. Other foods, including croupouc, a favourite of mine, was tasty. The Hindu influence is likely responsible for not many cows being eaten, and the ones that are, not being the best beef around. For comedy relief, a funny video about Indonesian cooking, which is obviously an exaggeration, but funny nonetheless :)
Toilets
Ok, this video is more funny than fair or accurate, most toilets we used were western style, but all of them I used had a flush that was so low that you had to bend over with your head almost over the bowl you just sat on, to reach and use it. Why, oh why?
History
Ok, like many countries that only got their independence recently, their past has colorful and not so great pieces history. I recently happened to watch The Act of Killing a documentary I heard about on the Daily Show of all things, and portrays the mass killings of about 1 million indonesian by death squad leaders who were there to remove all traces of communism (the goal is understandable, but killing tens or hundreds of thousands poor villagers who happened to be associated with communists without really knowing any better, is harder to understand). The group responsible is currently still in power as far as I know, and also wrote their own version of "history is written by the winners" that we got to read in the diorama under a couple of national monuments we visited in Bali and Jakarta.
A fine example of impartial story telling :)
Religion clashes and influences
Buddhism and Hinduism were not an issue at all, and on the contrary responsible for most of the nice temples and historical places we went to visit. Christianism and other non Muslim faiths also existed but were more limited. I believe the most widespread religion across all of Indonesia is Islam though.
Like Malaysia (which unfortunately did host some of the 9-11 hijackers and their planning meetings), Indonesia also welcomes many religions. To me, this is great as long as they are all accepting of one another and don't try to push their views onto others. Obviously, I'm biased, but nowadays Islam has a track record of heavily pushing their views onto others, and setting/changing local laws to match their religion (a bit like if there was a law preventing alcohol or pork in a random country). While it was thankfully possible to get tasty pig in Bali, that's not true of many of the others Indonesian islands. Similarly, the food in local flights that doesn't offend anyone was the worst food I had ever eaten, and I'm not that difficult with food.
Similarly, they have the same problem in schools where kids have to wear uniforms so that they can all be treated alike (while I didn't grow up with this, sounds like a reasonable idea to me). However, Muslim girls had their own uniform to allow for their religion mandated hide your face veil, which in my eyes kind of defeats the purpose of an everyone is the same school uniform:
Yes, Islam is supposed to be peaceful religion of course, except that it contains easily manipulated followers, some are turned into extremists which around the world they sure have given the entire religion a very bad name, even if they are a very small minority.
Sadly some of those extremist Islamists have also done bad things in Indonesia, namely bombing the Borobudur Buddhist temple in Indonesia, the largest one in the world, or more recently bombing Bali which pays less attention to sharia law (Islamic law for all, even non islamists) and over 200 people got killed for the islamic crime of drinking alcohol at a pub. Sigh...
On the plus side, outside of bombing a major Hindu temple, extremist muslims in Indonesia haven't started eradicating all the christians like they have done in Egypt, so I suppose it could be worse...
Again, I know that most Muslims are peaceful and nice people, but the extremist cancer in that religion is sadly a problem :(
Yeah, sorry, this was too long, but to end the topic on Indonesia, all the people we interacted with were fantastic, it's only in the airports on crappy cheap flights that were glorified bus with wings that we had to fight line cutters and people trying to push their way through. While Jennifer was frazzled by this, it was not a problem for me, I know how to handle that and make sure not to get pushed around.
We had a great time, and we've already made plans to go back and trying a new diving cruise on the Banda Sea out of Maumere and ending up in Ambon.